Shoes With Soul Speak Volumes: Luxury Fashion & Lifestyle

Shoes With Soul Speak Volumes: Luxury Fashion & Lifestyle

Andrew Scharf launches a new column on Men’s Fashion this weekend, entitled, “Top Hat”, dedicated to style and elegance. Today, he steps out to find the best shoemakers in Paris; What he discovers are craftsmen on a little known back street just minutes from the boulevard crowds

Viewpoint by Andrew Scharf, Head of the WCW Group

This week kicks off a new column entitled, “Top Hat”. I hope to share with you my passion for all things beautiful, stylish, and elegant beyond the vanities of fashion. Elegance has no time; it is timeless. It is true that each generation has its own taste, re-interpretes classics, but in the end, the old values of hand made articles and clothes carry an individual personality.

These new classics will not only set you off from the pack of misguided style sheep, but will give you that added extra panache. The title of the column, “Top Hat” is in honour of all those who embody this timeless fashion such as Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Sean Connery, the Duke of Windsor, and of course, that gentleman who started it all, Beau Brummel.

Today’s subject is shoes. Why shoes? Look at the feet around you on the bus, in the metro, on the street and in the office. You see all types of sneakers, sport shoes, and mass produced bits made in China. Few shoes stand out. Some are pointed to the length of ridiculousness, others are cut off squares; few have the shape that adds elegance to the foot.

Women are generally chided for their foot fetish tied to shoes. Men on the other hand don’t really seem to care. Forgetting the fact that you are on your feet all day long and that comfort is key, your shoes speak volumes about your character, background, education, style or the lack of good taste.

In England, the first thing an employer or perspective client will notice are your shoes. A hand made pair from that noble establishment on St. James’s street is easily recognisable by all the initiates into the arcane but delightful practice of wearing bespoke shoes.

In today’s world of mass produced dross, there are few shoemakers around worth their salt. Fortunately, the trade has not died out but flourishes on small streets in discrete neighborhoods throughout Europe. The countries most associated with contemporary shoe making are the United Kingdom, France, and Italy. These craftsmen are worth seeking out; your feet will rejoice and your soul will shine out even on days when the weather is drastically wet and inclement.

As is my custom, I love to stroll around the streets of Paris, a city known for luxury and excellent craftsmen and craftswomen. On a small street hidden not far from the Boulevard des Capucines is an atelier run by Pierre Corthay. The atelier-shop is small and cozy; half the space is given over to the actual craft of shoe making itself with its hand craved wooden lasts, cremes, colours, dyes, and the tools of the trade. The smell is warm and masculine. Dropping by on a typical afternoon, I meet Pierre at the door upon entering the sanctum. A new visitor is immediately struck by his amiability and passion for shoes.

He is obsessed by professionalism, colour and style. The model shoes are long and graceful. What is striking is not just the craftsmanship, which is clearly on open display, but the philosophy and nature of innovation as applied to a contemporary master of the shoe making art. Form and colour strike a balance. What is even more refreshing is that comfort is not sacrificed.

Pierre features bespoke shoes, but what is also noteworthy is that his establishment also sells pret-a-porter. Bespoke, every shoe lover knows, fit like gloves. They are made to the exact specifications of your feet. All of us have had the experience of buying ready to wear shoes, even from established houses.

They are invariably too tight, too long, too high… Always something.

That something is hard to feel in a shop. The real test, I always say, is to wear the shoes for a whole day. If you do not think of your feet and the pain and there are no blisters than you are in luck.

Most men have wide feet. So why, is it that major shoe firms only specialise in narrow widths?

It is a question that never gets a satisfactory answer. Even though shoes do stretch, if you are not comfortable when you buy your shoes, than it is best to leave them in the shop. They will never properly feet.

At Pierre Corthay, he will glance at your feet and know immediately what your size is like a magician. Not all pret-a-porter shoes will fit every foot size. What I appreciate about Pierre is his honesty and frankness. He will tell you what is really suitable for yor feet and what is not. There is never any pressure to buy; the shoes do all the talking.

Since shoes are his passion, he is not looking for a quick sale but to build another life long relationship of satisfaction. His knowledge of shoes runs deep. he has served lengthy periods of time working for the reputable makers of John Lobb and Berlutti. Both houses have their own distinct styles and voices. Both honour the craft and produce outstanding shoes. When Pierre struck out on his own, he wanted to channel his craft in shoe making to creating something unique, not copies of other people’s shoes. You will find his voice in shoe making distinctive. The quality and detail are striking.

The people in the Corthay atelier are as enthusiastic about shoe making as he is. There is a hum of energy which comes from the love of creating something unique with your hands. If you ask him what defines a Corthay shoe, he will say, “a fine, elongated shoe, which is proportionate to the foot of the person”.

What you will also discover is the nuance of the patina. Black can be mixed with aubergine, grey, and midnight to create something which takes the colour black into another dimension. Pierre has been heavily influenced by modern artists such as Mark Rothko and Henri Matisse. You can see his appreciation permeates the colours of the shoes on the display tables. As he states, “colour communicates emotion”.

Such statements reinforce Aristotle’s definition of happiness as defined in his “Ethics”. If happiness is a state of mind, your mind will be best positioned to support this attitude if you are wearing a pair of shoes in which comfort, elegance, and style come together in the form of the sublime.

There is always some joker in the crowd who will crow that good shoes are expensive. First, the shoes of Pierre Corthay whether pret-a-porter or bespoke are excellent value for money. Secondly, the pret-a-porter ones will glide on your feet like slippers.

I saw a pair of Beatle boots, I just couldn’t resist. At first, I thought that the bear paws which constitute my lower extremities would never even get inside let alone fit. Pierre smiled, glided them on my feet, and voila! Standing up and shuffling around the room, I was now well shod, and ready to continue my “Magical Mystery Tour”.

Who says that Paris is always gray?

For Further Information, visit Pierre Corthay at his atelier on the rue Volnay, 75001 Paris.

About the Author

Andrew Scharf is a regular contributor to WCW inSIGHT on culture, fashion, and lifestyle. He is also the head of the MBA Coaching & Career Development division of Whitefield Consulting Worldwide, whose unique coaching methodologies have helped countless professionals harmonise their professional aspirations with their developmental needs.

Visit: http://www.whitefieldconsulting.com

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